In June I celebrated 20 years in Tulum. Crazy right? How’d I do that in a culture that is so mobile, so young, so ever changing.
It was never my plan, never in my wildest dreams (and I’ve had some pretty wild dreams) did I see myself staying here. But it’s been those wild dreams and making them come true that kept me coming back.
“You must have seen lots of changes,” people say when I tell them I arrived in 2004.
“It's been like living in quicksand,” I’ll tell them frankly and remember the dirt road to the now Hotel Zone, how I knew every person in town, yes town not city. I’ll think about the blue crabs that used to flood the streets and my yard on the full moon that have now become so scarce. And I remember watching turtles lay eggs and then hatch on deserted stretches of beach. I push the memories of development, narcos and murders from my mind since that’s not good for business and only tell them, “yes, lots of changes.”
Others ask incredulously, “You’ve been here all that time? Summertime too?”
I nod, “Pretty much.” I look back on some amazing road trips to escape the hurricanes and the long days of summer when I lived with no electricity. I’d sleep with a towel under me and when it got too brutal, run across the road to the sea and jump in. More afraid of a person than sharks, I’d run back home refreshed and sleep til sunrise. As I got more courageous, I even slept on the beach under the blanket of stars with the beach dog who slept by me.
And then I look around at what Tulum is today and I ask myself why I’ve stayed too.
Well, first, Tulum is magic. Don’t let anyone tell you it isn’t. If they do, take them biking to the beach for sunrise or on a boat into the biosphere or on a walk through town to buy trinkets from a 5 year old or a cold pressed juice from an Australian or to dance in the park on a Tuesday night with a mermaid.
There’s still magic here.
Second, the animals here are crazy amazing. Mine all came to me of their own accord and I’ve loved rescuing them. Animals are so much easier than humans. I leave that to my yoga classes. These recovering strays give me love and a satisfaction that’s been hard to replicate in my same species relationships.
Third, I’ve put down shallow roots here. I’ve an amazing yoga studio that I built here called Tribal Tulum. I practice in that world class space each day, feeling the wood floors, the natural air and light, the crazy dream catching curtains I inherited from my Mom. And I get to teach yoga here and work with other teachers who have so much to offer. The studio is my dharma, as much as writing or swimming or patting my dogs and cats. So when I walk in and then share it with like minded people, the magic amplifies and keeps me close.
Four, I meet so many cool people. It’s inspiring watching other people make their dreams come true. Some fail. Many succeed. But they all make it a great place to try. I love when I ride my bike around town and notice that there’s a new food stall, amazing hand made jewelry, repurposed clothing or artisanal tamales that someone has put their heart and soul into.
Five, I transform worthy people’s lives. That sounds a bit arrogant, full of hubris perhap. But its true. So i’ll say it. In the 20 years I’ve been here, I’ve inspired people in so many ways. I’m not sure I could have done that in my former career as an environmental engineer. Since my non-profit for women with breast cancer to the architect of my Robinson Crusoe Jungle Beach Houses, through my days as a migrant yoga teacher, the manager of a boutique hotel, and now as a business owner and yoga retreat hostess, I get to open people’s eyes to magic and miracles just by encouraging them to notice.
On so many occasions, I can take their hand, point to something, tell them a bit about it and watch their jaws drop. It could be something about themselves in a yoga class, or something about Mayan mysticism or something about nature, my crazy domestic animals or our natural resources like electricity and water. But those tidbits of information make people see the magic in themselves as they see it in Tulum. That buzz has kept me here for 20 years.
So whether you’re coming here for a vacation, to test the waters of Mexican living or to retreat with us into yoga and meditation and realize your full potential for happiness, watch out. You may just find yourself coming back, time and time again. And then 20 years might pass and, like me, you’ll be so grateful for the magic life has shared.